Watch Video Takes only 5 minutes to melt glass to begin pulling. I have tried several and yours by far is the best I have used. Flame or Air Dry. Excellent quality. Easy to use. This is a very tough bead release. When hot, it resists crumbling. But it loses its strength when cooled and slips the bead off easily. Can be used for Boro, too. Note: we have tried both flame and air drying this release. Air drying seems to be the most effective.
Flame drying works but does not seem to be as strong. Excellent for Electric Spinner work, or by hand. Make barrel, cone, bi-cone beads and other shapes fast and smoothly with these high quality brass handheld bead rollers. Brass rolls easily with your hot glass, forming a smooth glass surface. Now with bearing rollers for ultra smooth movement. Rigid fiberglass handle. Re-sharpen on fine sandpaper. Overall length is 12 inches. There is a hole through the bottom for access, or clamp beads with the hole to the side.
Steel construction. Nylon holder pads that won't damage beads. Tungsten resists wear and sticking from high heat. Lasts and lasts. Color may vary. Hang rods over the edge above your torch while you work to keep the ends hot, or place Murinni on the screen well in front of your torch, out of your way. Watch Video. Now with wider Marver and slots for smaller and Pandora mandrels. Slots are for shaping the ends of your bead. Slide it over the mandrel and push toward your bead. Use the flat sides as a marver.
Use the jagged edge for raking or ridge shaping. Great for spinner work too. Great set of pliers. Grab hot glass to stretch, twist or puncture. Grab rods and tubes to hold them in the torch. Also great for shorts. Glass Cutting Sheers - 6 Inch overall length. Sturdy, high quality pair of sheers, great for cutting off excess molten glass and large loop handle for easy grip. Padded to prevent heat transfer. Nice heavier duty set. Flat ends with ribs.
Squeeze to open. Flat Masher Tweezers. All stainless steel. One inch round pads. Heavy duty stainless. Close when pressure is released. Padded handles. Top bead tweezers open to about 1.
Bottom tweezers will hold around 1 to 1. Stainless Steel. Great for rakes, shaping and more. Or drill a few of the holes for larger mandrels. Mandrels in the picture are not included.
Can hold 88 mandrels. Plastic Mandrel or Burr Stand. Great for storing glass rods. Ideal for handling stones, beads and other small objects. Four-prong style. Heavy duty. Very firm grip. No more melting two short glass rods together. Simply insert a glass rod into this all stainless steel holder and start working. Two piece construction prevents heat transfer to your hand. Holds up to a 12mm thick glass rod. Light weight and well balanced. Larger Picture. Highest Grade Ceramic Fiber Blanket.
Superior insulating quality. Video this video demonstrates a smaller version, but operates the same This ceramic lined stove has been designed specifically for glass rod warming rather than for hair tools. It is the Jumbo Size to accommodate a large quantity of rods. The opening measures 2. The brace in the front of the stove has been set at an ideal height so the rods always sit at an angle toward the inside of the stove, so the rods won't slide out. Either a stainless place can sit on the inside floor of the rod warmer or a rack in the back to rest rods on.
These are sold separately below. Reaches about degrees F, which is ideal for preheating glass rods. Does not get hot enough to anneal glass. Please see our annealer for that. Once your rods have heated in minutes , you can place them directly into your torch flame without further heating.
This reduces lampworking time and saves torch gas. This stove can also be used to cool your beads rather than using a ceramic fiber blanket or vermiculite crock pot. I stack my newly made beads inside on the rack sold separately below.
When I'm done, I turn off the stove and put a bit of fiber blanket at the front opening to keep the heat in longer.
Just let it cool down naturally and then take your beads out. Caution: glass rods can melt and stick to the bottom of this rod warmer. The stainless steel plate sold below for the inside floor is strongly suggested to prevent this.
This stove gets HOT!! It reaches degrees Fahrenheit inside. The walls of the stove can exceed degrees.
So it is best to use these plates to reduce the heat on your glass and prevent melting or sticking to the stove floor. See the picture below. It is also best to use a metal tray on the outside top sold below to prevent frit and other small glass pieces from sticking to the stove if you intend on using it for that. Cold beads can be reheated for reworking by first placing them in this rod warmer for about 30 minutes on a mandrel, and then carefully placing them back into the flame.
Cold beads should be placed in a cold stove only, and then heated as the stove warms up. Special Notes: It is best to not put your hot glass rods directly from your flame back into this stove. They can stick to other rods or the walls because they are much hotter than the stove.
I place mine on a glass rod rack on the table for a minute or so to allow them to cool somewhat first. H eating your rods from a cold stove is best. To heat a cold rod when the stove is hot, place the rod on top of other hot rods that are already in the stove so that the tip of the cold rod is only slightly into the stove.
As the cold rod heats, slowly move it deeper into the stove. This Rod Warmer is for professional use only. It is not intended to be used in the home around children or pets.
It gets hot on the outside and can cause burns if touched. Please keep this stove on a metal desktop or other nonflammable surface, and away from combustible materials, children and pets. Never touch the outside of the stove when it is on. Inside air temperature reading during operation. Probe is not touching the walls. Readings are Fahrenheit. Pyrometer is NOT included. We will do our best to send your warmer as least expensively as possible and refund you if we can.
Please email us with any concerns. Thank you. Electrical Specs: watts, volts, 4. Or watts volts, 2 amps for European models. Thermostatically controlled. Universal adapters for different receptacles. Showing both sides of one adapter. Restrictions apply: First 30 days after purchase date, free replacement of a defective unit. We pay the shipping both ways. From 30 days to 90 days after purchase date, we will repair a defective unit free of charge and pay shipping both ways.
From 90 days to days after purchase date, we will repair a defective unit free of charge. Customer pays to ship unit to us, we pay to ship the unit back to the customer. It is a God-send! I set it up in the afternoon and decided to put it through it's paces by putting into it my most stubborn glass rods from several different manufacturers.
These glass rods are some of the most shocky, stubborn, "just throw it across the room" type of rods. Not one single rod popped or shattered! They just meekly complied to being put in the flame and melted. Thank you Soooo Much! Hi, Got the rod warmer yesterday and thought i would try it tonight. Just playing around but it worked great. I think i am going to like this a lot.
I am going to cut a piece of graphite to fit the top of the heater. Thanks for making this item available to us. Hi, I was writing to let you know how much I love your rod warmer. Not only is it an extreme help with the rods not popping, but I do a tremendous amount of lace work, and then, before I had the rod warmer, when I turn the glass lace's into the fire, they usually do a bit of crack, Snapple, pop, but with this rod warmer, they just slide into the heat and on from there.
Just wanted to say what a wonderful addition to my tools this rod warmer is. Thanks - V. Fits inside rod warmer sold above. Channel plate above goes on top outside the annealer for frit and Murini.
It prevents glass pieces from sticking to the warmer and offers a nice flat surface to pick up frit by rolling your bead. It is made of aluminum. It prevents the glass rods from sticking to the bottom of the annealer if you use it as a rod warmer. The plate is stainless steel. Stainless steel heavy mesh. Heavy gauge all welded stainless mesh makes this an ideal way to stack beads.
Add a ball of glass to your mandrel. Slide this masher so the mandrel fits into the slot, and mash until the mashers stop. Open the mashers and turn your bead a bit, and mash again to flatten where the slot was. Bead pictures coming soon. Pad is 2" x 2". Flip the mashers and mash one space over to get a reverse ruffle. Continue around your bead until you reach the beginning. Ribs are steel, so coat them in cooking oil when storing for long periods to prevent oxidation.
Great little shaper. Simply squeeze melted glass, or squeeze and pull a bit for a stretched effect. Hardened Steel Fin Pliers - 8 inch. Fish by Emily Jackson. Thanks so much, Emily.
Couldn't be more adorable. Stub Nose Fin Pliers , for a wider, larger fin. Hardened Steel Pliers. Veins are on one side. Makes square beads. Excellent for rounding your bead into a barrel shape and for mashing frit into your bead.
Even though the pads are eye shaped, they produce a rounded bead by squeezing several times as you rotate the bead. Please watch the videos to see how it is done. Spring loaded. This set is for smaller barrel shaped beads. Pad size is 2 inches long. Pliers are 8 inches. Pads are stainless steel. Pad size is 1 inch wide by 2 inches long. When closed, pliers form an eye shape which is ideal for rounding your barrel bead or mashing frit.
Rotate your bead as you open and close the pliers to round the bead. Make fish fins, leaf lines, feathers and a host of other lined designs. Offset sides for best line formation. Sturdy stainless tong handles with aluminum fins. Make single lines in your glass fast with these great 5. Make leaf lines, fish fin lines, flower lines and more.
You won't find these at such low prices anywhere on the net. These are strong, sturdy and great quality. Small Inside Gripper- 12 inches long. Great for quickly making smaller amounts of frit. Comes with a magnet for removing possible metal fragments.
Only a few plunges crushes glass pieces to frit. Screen the frit and you're done. Overall height is 9 inches, the width is 3 inches. A reamer is a type of cutting tool that is used to enlarge holes in glass workpieces. They typically have a handle attached to a slim or pointed end that makes it easy to drive through hot glass.
Reamers are commonly made of graphite or brass material and are available in different shapes and styles. Graphite pushes and rods are other great tools to use when shaping a glass workpiece. Graphite pushes feature rod-like ends with different cross sectional diameters that allow the glassworker to shape the workpiece by pushing into it or alongside it.
The different sizes available can create a variety of effects on the final product. Graphite molds are a great way to help shape a glass workpiece. These molds come in different shapes and sizes that can facilitate the shaping and detailing of a variety of glass products since they are already measured and provide a solid template for the workpiece. A blowhose and swivel are tools common to both lampworking and scientific glassblowing. This fixture allows the glassworker to blow glass through the blowhouse, which is made up of a mouthpiece, a latex hose, and a blowpipe.
The hose is attached to an opening in the glass being worked. The swivel attachment allows it to be rotated in different directions, giving the glassworker more freedom to angle or move the workpiece when shaping it. A tungsten pick is a great tool for moving or dragging the glass workpiece across the work surface or to drive a hole through the melted glass. This pick is made of tungsten because it is very resistant to high temperatures, making it ideal for glasswork.
Claw grabbers or grippers are useful tools that allow glassworkers to grab onto the glass workpiece and rotate it with ease. These tools are available in different shapes and sizes and can be chosen depending on your specific needs or purposes. Glassworkers typically use claw grabbers during the finishing process of lampworking.
Glassworkers are exposed to a lot of eye-damaging light when working with heated glass for prolonged periods. In order to mitigate this damage, they use didymium glasses. These glasses filter the harmful light emitted from the glassworking process to shield the eyes from any damage it could have caused if not worn. These glasses are a very important piece of personal protective equipment that all glassworkers should use.
The glassworking process involves working with molten glass, which can cause serious burns to glassworkers if not protected. These gloves are made up of different materials, so it is wise to choose the glove that would work best in your particular glassworking application.
It is important to wear the appropriate gloves when working with hot glass to protect your hands and avoid personal injury. An apron is another important piece of personal protective equipment that can serve to shield glassworkers from serious burns or injuries when lampworking. Not only can an apron be an effective safety measure, but many aprons have useful pockets or compartments to hold glassworking tools that allow glassworkers to easily reach for the tools they need while glassworking.
Alongside, the glassworking lathe is a very useful piece of equipment for glasswork. This piece of equipment can allow a glassworker to carry out the shaping and forming of glass without having to hold onto the glass workpiece itself. A lathe can hold light to heavy pieces of glass that can be exhausting to hold by hand. Not only can a lathe hold the glass workpiece in a fixed position, but it can also rotate and turn the workpiece into different positions, minimizing human strain and effort.
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